Team Torbellino - seeks rollocks!
Posted: 09 February 2010 11:12 PM   [ Ignore ]
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In 2010 we are sailing a J109 and are seeking design/rollocks suitable for fitting onto a J109.
All the J boats that competed last year must have had the same issue, so if anyone can advise, assist, loan it would be much appreicated.
many thanks
Jim
07801 679854

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Posted: 15 February 2010 04:01 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]
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Hi Jim

No one else seems to be offering help, so here are a couple of ideas that I have used over the years.

I am guessing that you do not have a toe rail on the J109, I dont either on my Reflex 38.

I do on my X99 where I simply have a large bit of angle iron, which bolt onto the holes in the toe rail with some big washers on the inside. The rowlock thingys, then bolt directly to the angle iron.

For my Reflex, I have a bit of aluminium tube (Sort of scaffold tube diameter), long enough to overlap the pushpit and the first stancheon forward of the pushpit. I use a tv antenna clamp, bolted through the aluminium tube to clamp to the stancheon and a sail tie to secure the other end to the pushpit. If you have a proper rowlock this can bolt directly through the tube at a suitable place. You will need to experiment where to clear things like winches and wheels etc. A plastic cap or some gaffer tape at the bottom is a good idea to protect the deck. If not I have been sucessfull with two large bolts, through the Aluminium bar, with some metal pipe to protect the oar from the threads, bolted at a suitable distance apart to allow the oar to be dropped between them allowing the oar to pivot.
I have seen a similar arrangement (Used on Vlad the Impaler) made out of wood, which had two wooden pieces, like an old fashioned rowlock, for the oar to rest between.

One advantage of the two pegs approach is thet it is very easy to get the oars ready to go and ship them across the boat when you find a gust. The proper rowlocks with gates need the gates closing before you are ready to go and opening, when you are ready to stop.

Hope this helps and you can understand what I am talking about without sketches.

Cheers
      Geoff West

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Posted: 25 March 2010 10:06 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]
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What about oars.  2.1m ‘normal oars don’t seem effective & ‘proper rowing oars’ are expensive.  Do I need to get my lathe out or is there an obvious Idea I’ve missed?? smile

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Posted: 30 March 2010 11:03 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]
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We have been able to borrow ‘sweeps’ (technical term for big oars) from our local rowing club for the past couple of times. Hopefully will be able to do likewise this year, although I have heard that the weather will be perfect and we won’t need to use them at all.

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Posted: 30 March 2010 04:59 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]
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misto - 30 March 2010 11:03 AM

I have heard that the weather will be perfect and we won’t need to use them at all.

So Misto what is your idea of perfect weather? cool smile

Force 4 downwind all the way?

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Posted: 30 March 2010 06:54 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]
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Hi Jim,
In the past we’ve used poles strapped between two hand rail stanchions, ropes with a loop strapped between stanchions and, the last two years, a wooden block bolted to the toe rail.  The later has worked very well, although Geoffs method also works well.

The wooden block is approx 2-3inches thick and sticks out from the toe rail about 5inches.  It is bolted through the holes in the rail using fairly small dia. all thread.  This is then cut off and trimmed so as not to cause damage to people.  A pair of rollocks are then bolted through the wooden block.  How they are bolted depends on the type used.  BUT the rollocks will need some way of preventing the oars jumping out.  If you know someone at a rowing club there’s usually some ‘old’ oars around.  I know they are expensive but most rowing clubs like the latest kit to stay competitive.

I’ve tried using old oars in the past but came unstuck in the Swellies.  They’re not powerful enough.  I’ve also used road sign poles and bolted on aluminium blades and they’ve worked very well, winning the race in 2000 and 2003.  The latest idea I have, if we can’t borrow rowing oars, is tv aerial pole, it’s smaller dia. than road sign pole.

Take a look at the featured photos and click on MobyJ rowing, it may give you an idea.  It looks like the winches are used.

We’ve strapped the oars to the toe rails, shrouds or put them in the forward cabin, all work, although along the rail they do catch water!

Remember the length, I’ve seen some have problems in the dreaded Swellies trying to use paddles and hit Platter rock.  Mind you it gives everyone a marker to go round.

Hope this helps

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Posted: 28 April 2010 10:37 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]
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At 30 foot yacht is “best” [also known as “least worst”] rowed with sculling blades, at 40 foot a yacht is better with sweeps.
sweeps are about 13 feet long.
The changeover depends on the intricacies of the boat, but the higher the deck is above the water, the longer the oar needs to be
I cant help with sculling blades but I have a supply of sweeps from a rowing eight which I am selling.
They are all carbon fibre sweeps and it’s £60 for 1, £100 for 2, £140 for 3
collection from poole, dorset, or maidenhead, berkshire.

You should only need 2, but if you want insurance against breaking or losing 1 then you’ll need 3.
If you think you might need 4 then you shouldn’t be doing this race.

email me at greg<at>vladtheimpaler.co.uk if you want to cross my palm with silver.

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